What types of repairs are allowed on Bravo B2000 shallow pans?

For B-18-3 Black Plastic Compression fittings leaking between gasket and pipe. Use WR-3 wrench to loosen seal between nut and donut gasket. Apply wet-dry grease between nut and gasket to allow nut to easily make a compression seal. If you cannot get grease between nut and gasket spray WD-40 between surfaces to lubricate hard to reach areas. Then compress nut to 1/4 to 1/2 turns past hand tight. If the bottom gasket seal of the B-18-3 black plastic compression fitting is leaking, the new (2014) Bravo B2000 Retrofit Kit includes a component to seal these as well as all other entries. Read below.

For Electrical or Vapor entries that do not have a seal or are leaking. Bravo has designed and packaged a “Kit” that includes Bravo Retrofit Epoxy along with custom FRP clamshells and reducers so that a contractor or service technician can retrofit these entry points to be water and fuel tight. Note that the new “B2000-Retrofit-Kit” should be ordered and installed to every 2000 UDC after appropriate cleanup as a retrofit operation to help ensure regulatory compliance and extend the working life of each UDC. Documentation on this kit can be found on the B2000 product page of this website.

For Shallow Pans with Divider Tabs – Required to electronically monitor each section? You are authorized to remove the liquid divider(s) or a portion of them if they exist. You need only to remove an area of a few inches from each divider to facilitate unrestricted liquid communication between the previously isolated containment zones. Bravo manufactures a composite plug that you need to epoxy into each float cup reservoir OTHER than the lowest point. An electronic sensor should be placed at the bottom of the single remaining float cup reservoir. All reservoirs in a sump should not be plugged. Documentation on this kit can be found on the B2000 product page of this website. Follow this procedure:

1) Remove all mechanical float trip mechanisms and their assemblies.
2) Remove any sealant at the divider area you wish to remove.
3) Using Tin-Snips, snip the divider vertically in two places and remove the loose piece.
4) Seal any metal that was cut, scratched or dinged with Vulkem sealant or PetroSeal to prevent against corrosion.
5) Use some water to determine which float cup reservoir is the lowest one.
6) Remove all liquids from the sump. Clean and dry the sump interior.
7) Lightly sand the float cup reservoirs that need to be sealed and epoxy the Bravo B2000-PLUG into them.
8) Install the sensor to the lowest point float reservoir.

Since a single cup would be left, any and all water can collect there even in amounts small enough to not trip the float so in most cases it is recommended to proactively convert that single cup to Fiberglass. The FAQ question below covers this.

What if there is only corrosion / rusting on or within the float cup reservoir?
This Q/A goes in hand with the use of PLUGS mentioned above to seal off float cups for electronic monitoring. Since a single cup would be left, any and all water can collect there even in amounts small enough to not trip the float. If the float cup reservoir shows signs of rusting through at any point below the floor of the shallow pan, the item number “FLOAT-CUP-RETROFIT-KIT” can be installed to retrofit a fiberglass float cup to the UDC so that it’s secondary containment integrity can be restored. Being a low point where water usually collects, converting float cup reservoirs to fiberglass via this retrofit kit also very effectively prolongs the working life of the UDC. Bravo is proud to still have these steel shallow pans in compliant operation today decades after installation even without these modern retrofits. Documentation on this kit can be found on the B2000 product page of this website.

How can I clean up a dirty B2000 or address evidence of surface corrosion? Follow this procedure:
A) Dust, blow out and/or vacuum any dry debris from the interior.
B) Vacuum out any liquids, debris, gunk, etc..
C) Protect any exposed test ports or threads, remove any electronic sensors.
D) Use Acetone to clean the surfaces so a visual inspection can be made.
E) Scrape the bottom and/or walls with a flat-blade tool. Re-vacuum.
F) Lightly sand all areas where the factory epoxy-paint is missing.
G) Coat any exposed steel with AmerShield, overlapping remaining factory paint.

What about corrosion on the exterior of the B2000 shallow pan?
Since exposing the underside and/or sides of the B2000 sump is rare, It is recommended that all exposed steel on the exterior is cleaned, sanded and proactively coated only with AmerShield as a corrosion barrier. Follow the same instructions as in Steps D, E and F above except on the exterior. Apply at least one coating of AmerShield and keep it exposed to the open air until it has fully cured.

How do I seal a hole in a B2000 shallow pan?
This fix does not apply to a hole caused by corrosion. You are prohibited from re-sealing a structurally weakened and/or mostly-corroded steel wall or floor with fiberglass. For factory or field-cut holes where an entry fitting was removed or abandoned you must re-seal the bottom floor of the sump. Bravo considers even a hole placed accidentally and forgotten to be the same as a factory cut hole. Both factory-approved methods described below require full pre-cleaning. Step 1 requires only cleaning while Step 2 requires the surface preparation and sanding steps as well. There are two options:
1) Re-install the original Bravo OEM fitting with a capped pipe. The pipe and cap must be liquid tight and should be tagged or labeled that it is NOT a fuel line or connected to a tank.
2) Install a Bravo FRP plate to the floor. For this procedure, Bravo supplies retrofit epoxy for sealing / gap-filling and a 10″x10″ plate which must be dry-fit and trimmed to fit over the hole. The following requirements apply: Minimum 3/4″ of contact with the steel floor 360° degrees around the opening. 1/2″ of clearance between the FRP plate and any other object, e.g., entry fittings, float cups, their hardware, dividing louvers. The plate edge should be beaded with epoxy and any steel still exposed near the repair should be coated with the same epoxy as a corrosion barrier. The patch should NOT be painted after installation so that it can be identified at a later time as an official Bravo repair.

For Product Information and documents for AmerShield, Click Here.

GENERAL GUIDELINE: No exposed Steel. No electric power tools OR sparking tools.

If a UDC has rusted through on the bottom of the pan or a vertical wall, it must be replaced. There is no authorized repair procedure and the structure of the UDC may be weakened to the point where a drive-off or collision may endanger customers on the forecourt and/or be the cause of unnecessary property damage.

Note: Always check with you local regulatory authority for additional guidelines and permitting requirements.